Today, let’s talk about a big category that holds an important position in our lace industry - embroidery, this topic should be able to chat several periods, because the category that embroidery includes is numerous, and the craft is different, now we first have a rough chat about a few main classification.

1、 First acquaintance with embroidery

Four elements of embroidery: needle, thread, cloth and draft.

stitch by stitch a cloth a draft drawing, not patchwork but perfect combination will complete rach great work.

2、 Embroidery machine

Embroidery machine is the product of modern scientific and technological progress. It can replace most manual embroidery. It has the advantages of stable quality, high efficiency, low cost and mass production, and realizes the transformation of embroidery from manual to mechanical.

The main functional performance of the embroidery machine is determined by the number of heads, the head distance, the number of needles, the maximum travel of the embroidery frame in the X and Y directions, the manufacturer's brand, etc. The number of heads is the number of heads working at the same time during embroidery, which determines the efficiency of the embroidery machine; The head distance is the distance between two adjacent heads, which determines the size and cost of a single embroidery product or cycle embroidered by the embroidery machine; The number of stitches is the number of single stitches installed in each head of the embroidery machine, which determines the maximum number of color changes and the color of the embroidery products when the embroidery machine embroiders; The maximum stroke of the embroidery frame in the X and Y directions determines the size of the embroidery products embroidered by the embroidery machine; Different manufacturers' brands correspond to different quality, service and professional embroidery machines.

working principle:

All embroidery machines are composed of two parts: the first part is that the head moves up and down to make the bottom thread sew embroidery; The movement of the second part of the embroidery frame in the X and Y directions makes the stitched stitch form a figure. Auxiliary systems include: thread breaking detection system, thread passing and tension adjustment system, embroidery speed, needle code coordination control system, etc.

3、 Classification of embroidery samples

1. Plain embroidery

Plain embroidery is the most widely used embroidery in embroidery. As long as the materials can be embroidered, it can be used as plain embroidery. It is a kind of embroidery that is performed on the plane base material by using the needle methods such as flush needle, swing needle, trocar, harmony needle and needle application. The embroidered surface is meticulous, delicate and full of texture. Embroidery, like painting, has a detailed description. Plain embroidery is an embroidery method composed of straight lines, which is mainly used for embroidery decorative appreciation and higher-level daily necessities. The orientation of plain embroidery lines, the rise and fall of stitches, the thickness of the thread, and the complexity and simplicity of the roles are all different from each other.

2. Three dimensional embroidery

Three dimensional embroidery (3D) is a 3D three-dimensional embroidery method, which includes: an upper and a lower layer protection part, wherein the lower layer is a water-soluble cloth, the 3D part is a hollow part, and the upper surface layer protection part to obtain a three-dimensional embroidery product; The surface protection part is made of hard fabric. In the step of the upper 3D part, it includes: the upper core layer, the hollow layer is a water-soluble part, the protective layer is shaped, and the surface protection part is shaped at 170 ℃ - 190 ℃; Embroidered body sewing, embroidered thread sewing to fix the surface protection part and the hollow layer at the bottom, and dissolve the water-soluble parts after water-soluble treatment; Thereby obtaining a three-dimensional embroidered product.

3. Cloth embroidery

Sticking cloth embroidery is to use sticking cloth instead of stitch to save embroidery thread and make the pattern more vivid. Ordinary flat embroidery machine can produce it. "The embroidery method is to cut the decal cloth according to the pattern requirements and paste it on the embroidered surface. Cotton and other materials can also be padded between the decal cloth and the embroidered surface, so that the pattern is raised and has a three-dimensional feeling. After pasting, various stitches are used to lock the edges. The embroidery method of the decal cloth is simple, and the pattern is mainly block surface, with a unique and generous style.

The embroidery process of the embroidery machine is divided into three steps: positioning, fixing and covering. When the embroidery reaches the embroidered object, a single line contour line is first used for positioning (the same color as the previous object). Then, stop the machine for color change, put the pasted cloth on the contour line, start the machine to fix the pasted cloth with fixed stitches, stop the machine for color change, cut off the excess cloth, and then start the machine to cover the surface with stitches.

4. Thick thread embroidery

Thick thread embroidery uses thicker (e.g. 603) sewing thread as the embroidery thread, with large hole needle or large needle, thick thread rotary shuttle and 3mm needle plate to complete the embroidery, which can be produced by ordinary plain embroidery machine.

5. Carved hole embroidery

Hole carving embroidery can be produced on ordinary flat embroidery machines, also known as hole punching embroidery. It is to make holes on the embroidery fabric with the help of tools such as hole carving knife or hole carving needle installed on the embroidery machine, and then carry out edge wrapping embroidery. This is an embroidery method which is difficult for plate making and equipment, but the effect is very unique. However, it is necessary to install the engraving embroidery device (currently, it can only be installed on the first needle bar). It is to carve through the cloth with a hole carving knife, and then wrap the edge with embroidery thread to form a hole in the middle.

6. Sequin embroidery (bead embroidery)

In the process of bead embroidery, the sheet feeding device moves the long bead belt, such as rubber belt, onto the fabric, and then the slicing knife of the slicing device cuts the beads one by one. At the same time, the embroidery needle penetrates the fabric at the center of the bead (bead hole), and the bead position is fixed. Then, the single needle, double needle and three needles are embroidered along the outer ring of the bead as the center to wrap the bead and make it close to the fabric. With the repeated movement of the bead embroidery device and the embroidery needle and the movement of the embroidery frame, a sparkling bead embroidery is completed.

7. Chain towel embroidery

It is also a popular embroidery method in Europe and America, which is completed by changing the thread hooking action of the special machine head. Because the coil is a ring, like a chain, it is named. Due to the unique effect, the price is slightly higher.

8. Coil embroidery (wide band embroidery)

Towel embroidery is a very popular embroidery method in European and American clothing. The effect is like pasting a towel cloth. It is soft, flat and has various colors. During embroidery, the ordinary embroidery thread is hooked up from the bottom of the machine through the special towel machine head, and the towel effect is brought out by winding one coil after another. Chain stitch is also a popular embroidery method in Europe and America, which is completed by changing the thread hooking action of the special machine head. Because the coil is a ring, the shape is like a chain, and the embroidery effect is unique, so it is named.

As a special computer embroidery machine, the "ribbon embroidery" is a supplement to the functions of the flat sewing embroidery machine (flat embroidery machine). Its appearance makes up for many embroidery tasks that the flat sewing embroidery machine can not complete, and makes the computer embroidery products more three-dimensional and more colorful.

There is also a 30mm-50mm wide band embroidery with vertical three-dimensional effect, which is mainly used for high-grade dresses, wedding dresses and other women's clothing.

9. Special rope embroidery (tracking rope embroidery)

This is an important embroidery method. It is an embroidery method that uses embroidery thread to wrap the thin rope inside. Rope embroidery is a kind of embroidery that breaks through the limitations of previous production and can be embroidered with a rope belt of different thickness. In sweaters and knitted fabrics, it can make special craft of imitating manual embroidery.

10. Laser Cutting Embroidery

Laser cutting embroidery is a combination of embroidery and laser technology. Laser cutting is divided into surface cutting, semi cutting and full cutting. Principle of the laser embroidery machine: after the laser power supply is powered on, the high pressure is generated and loaded into the laser tube. There is a special gas containing carbon dioxide in the laser tube. Under the high pressure, the laser is generated. After the laser passes through the lens, it forms a beam with strong penetration. "Laser embroidery" can produce a variety of complex, innovative and popular pasted embroidery patterns due to its thin beam, high-speed movement and continuous cutting.

4、 Embroidery raw materials

1. Type of line

Rayon thread: common thread for embroidery. Human silk thread, also known as silk and artificial fiber, is the result of modern scientific progress. Its feel and luster can be comparable to that of silk. Rayon is made of plant fiber through various processes. It is easy to be affected by moisture. After being affected by moisture, the strength is significantly reduced. It can be colored as long as it is used at low temperature. The dyeing cost is low and it is easy to control. The price of rayon is relatively expensive, with good hand feel, good gloss, good coloring and bright color. It is suitable for high-grade embroidery. Common rayon thread specifications: 250D / 2, 150D / 3, 150D / 2, 120d / 2, etc.

Pure cotton thread: common thread for embroidery. Also known as cotton thread, it is made of combed cotton yarn, with high strength, uniform evenness, bright color, complete color spectrum, good gloss, sun resistance, washability, and no lint. It is embroidered on cotton, linen and artificial fiber fabrics, beautiful and generous, and widely used. It can be used for embroidery top thread and bottom thread. Common cotton thread specifications: 30s / 2, 40s / 2, 60s / 2.

Artificial cotton: also known as mercerized cotton, it is made of polyester and cotton, with brightness and luster. Good tensile strength. It can be used for embroidery top thread and bottom thread, with a noble feeling. Common artificial cotton thread specifications: 30s / 2, 40s / 2, 60s / 2.

Polyester thread: common thread for embroidery. Also known as polyester fiber, it is processed from polyester chemical fiber filament. It has good gloss, high strength, and is washable and sun resistant. However, high temperature is required for dyeing. Common specifications of polyester yarn: 150D / 3, 150D / 2

Gold and silver thread: common thread for embroidery. It is also called metal wire, but the outer layer of the wire is covered with a metal film, and the inner layer is made of rayon or polyester. Due to the surface gloss of the thread, the designer can make a sparkling embroidery effect; During embroidery, the embroidery needle, embroidery thread and cloth often rub against each other to generate heat. At this time, the young hairs of the embroidery thread play a role and take away the heat through the embroidery needle, while the surface layer of the metal wire does not carry the young hairs. The heat of the embroidery needle still exists, so that the metal film is dissolved by the heat, and even the thread is broken. Therefore, the conventional utilization rate is low.

Liuqing line: also known as PP line. It is commonly used in family sewing and clothing factories, with good strength and rich colors. It can also be used for embroidery.

Milk silk: it is also one of the commonly used embroidery threads in recent years. It is composed of chemical fiber filaments without viscosity. It is soft in hand, fluffy in texture and matte in material. It is frequently used by the embroidery industry because of its reasonable price and unaffected output.

2. Fabric

Water soluble fabric: water soluble lace is a necessary fabric, so it is also known as water soluble paper and non-woven fabric. It is made of plant fiber processed by various processes and is easily affected by moisture. When it is used for embroidery, it is easy to "shift" (when the machine is embroidered, the embroidered stitch deviates from the designed position, which will cause quality problems such as the lace can not cover the bottom needle, thread dropping, scattering and deformation). When the water-soluble cloth is put into the water and the water temperature is over 80 ℃, the water-soluble cloth will start to dissolve in the water, so only the lace embroidered on the water-soluble cloth will be left. This kind of lace is called water-soluble lace.

The common specifications of water-soluble cloth are: 45g, 40g, 38g and 25g (for lining cloth).

Transparent mesh: the bottom mesh cloth is commonly used in embroidery. When used for embroidery, the lining cloth needs to be added. The handle is smooth, light and thin, and the mesh is in the shape of small hexagonal edges. It is lighter than the lace when dyeing, and can be colored at high and low temperatures. The mesh tension is not very strong. If you don't pay attention to embroidery and shaping, small holes may appear.